Baltic Blue Pothos care And Top Secret Revealed – Ultimate Guide

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Baltic Blue Pothos care: I’ve been on a quest to find every single one of Trending Tropicals plants. I’ve finally discovered the Baltic Blue pothos! I am a fan of pothos, which is why I’ve written about various varieties of pothos you can get previously.

I also have care instructions for my top picks such as the care for blue Cebu pothos, marble queen pothos care, global green pothos care and many more.

Aureum vs. pinnatum

The pothos varieties I have can be classified as Epipremnum aureum or Epipremnum pinnatum. Epipremnum is the name of the species both aureum and pinnatum reside. Aureum is the more popular form of pothos. it contains marble, golden queen jade, global Green and many more.

The leaves of aureum pothos plants are usually larger as well as more heart-shaped than pinnatum’s leaves. Aureum species plants grow and trail, however, the majority of plants that you will find in nurseries are in tiny pots and hanging containers.

Epipremnum pinnatum is a distinct species. It is closely related to Epipremnum pinnatum, however, there are distinct distinctions. The leaves of pinnatum pothos plants tend to be longer and narrower. This includes varieties that you might have heard of such as Cebu blue Epipremnum Pinnatum Albo Variegata and the present plant, Baltic Blue.

They can climb and trail too, however, you’ll typically find them within smaller containers (since they’re generally harder to locate). It’s also beneficial to allow these little creatures to climb if you wish for the leaves to develop and then fenestrate (split). We’ll get to that in a minute.

Baltic Blue pothos vs. Cebu Blue pothos

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The two plants are Epipremnum pinnatum, however, they’re different species. Cebu blue is a trail and climbs however, it has more finely textured leaves, and has a more silvery and minty look. It is also required to climb to be fenestrated (split).

If you allow a blue Cebu pothos plant to follow a trail through the forest, it will develop well. But the leaves will not grow fenestrations, and they’ll start to get slightly smaller.

Baltic Blue pothos isn’t had a silver sheen and its leaves do not have so much of a bluish-green. Baltic Blue is also beginning to fenestrate later than other pothos varieties.

The cool thing that is unique about Baltic Blue is that the leaves will increase in size without the need for an apparatus for climbing, such as the moss pole or trellis. Therefore, how you present it is dependent on you. Place it on a table or hanging basket with or without poles or trellis…it’s your choice.

Do you know how much sunlight a Baltic Blue pothos needs?

The lighting requirements to be met by Baltic Blue pothos are similar to those of other pothos plants. The deep green leaves are blue with blue undertones and they thrive in anything from bright to medium-light conditions.

It is possible to place it close to a sunny window. I usually place plants like this some feet away from the west or east-facing window. However, this plant could work well in a window facing north.

If you’re putting it in an east-facing window, you should be aware of how intense light you’re receiving. The location could be suitable in the fall, spring and winter, but the summer sun can be too intense even inside.

Direct light can harm foliage, therefore if going to take it outside during the spring and summer months, ensure you’re in shade. If you must put it in a location that receives direct sunlight, less direct sunlight in the morning is ideal.

Are you interested in learning more about indoor lighting for plants? Read my article on how to utilize lights for growing indoor plants with your houseplants!

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Water & soil needs

The two go hand-in-hand So I’ve been writing about them in my newest articles on gardening. Baltic Blue pothos thrives in soil that drains well and is most likely to do well in the most basic indoor or garden soil mixtures.

I typically purchase these mixes and then throw an additional amount of perlite, coco coir (a fantastic alternative to peat moss) or both. Depends on what the plants needs. I’m not planning on repotting the pothos in my Baltic Blue pothos until at most the summer or spring.

However, the soil that it was in is usually a good indication of the kind of plant it prefers. It’s also in fluid soil that is made up of what appears to be coco coir or moss. The additives help the soil completely drain when you water your plant.

It ensures that the plant’s roots receive all the moisture they require without clogging the soil. If the soil in your garden isn’t dense enough and the plant suffers from root rot, and then die. The signs of a dying, over-watered plant include wilted and leafy leaves that are yellowing.

It’s best to allow the soil to dry out nearly completely between the watering sessions. If you allow it to dry completely, you’ll notice that the leaves start to shrink. The plant will grow back if you don’t let it wander too long with no water. But do not create a routine.

I typically keep my pothos plants watered regularly during the summer and spring typically every two weeks or so during the autumn and winter months. Lower light and colder temperatures mean that plants will require less water.

Requirements for temperature and humidity

Baltic Blue pothos plants are tolerant of various home temperatures and humidity levels. This is why pothos plants are a great choice for indoor plants, as well. Baltic Blue pothos is no any different.

Make sure you don’t leave your pothos plants in the shade when temperatures fall to 40 degrees in the evening, however. It’s not a plant that can withstand cold and will not be able to withstand the effects of frost.

The plant will be able to enjoy more heat and humidity, however. Therefore, adding a humidifier to your garden is beneficial. Also, if you live in a humid area, like us it is possible to move your plant outside to a sun-lit place for spring as well as summer.

It is evident that while it’s true that the Baltic Blue pothos does excellent in normal levels of humidity, however, it can do exceptionally great when there is a bit of extra humidity! I’ve found this to be true for all the pothos I have.

Baltic Blue Pothos Pruning

Pruning trailing plants can be an ideal way to encourage bushier growth. If you are noticing your plant becoming less slender, which means there’s more space between new leaves, you can trim the growth.

This encourages fullness in the plant as it sprouts an additional growth point above the spot you cut. Because this point of growth isn’t straight and expands a little it aids in the development of the legitimacy.

It is also possible to trim your plant, even when it’s not overly slender. Perhaps you want to reduce its size or give away your cuttings. That’s fine, too. Pothos plants will not throw an argument after trimming them. I’ve discovered that it’s extremely beneficial for healthy growth!

How do I multiply Baltic Blue pothos cuttings?

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Pruning time can be a good time to explore propagation too. You might be looking at this article because you have received an oblong from someone and are trying to figure out what you can do to propagate Baltic Blue pothos. We’re here to help!

Pothos plants are among the easiest varieties to cultivate. My article regarding ways to make pothos cut-offs more propagable was the very first plant propagation article I ever created! It used golden pothos cuttings for an example, however, the procedure is identical. I also have a blue pothos cutting from Cebu that I have used for a proliferation post.

Remember that no matter which propagation method you select to propagate your Baltic Blue pothos cutting, you’ll need to propagate during the summer or spring when the conditions for growth are optimal. If you plan to propagate in winter or fall, invest in a heat mat and grow lights (that’s my method of choice).

Baltic Blue pothos water propagation

I don’t generally like water propagation as the roots are more susceptible to shock when transplanting the cuttings to the soil. But, pothos plants can thrive when propagated by water!

The roots develop very well and even if it does experience some shocks after you transfer it to the ground, it’ll bounce back. Simply cut a piece of plant that has at least two or three growth spots (look to see the nubs which grow the aerial roots) or take off the lower set of leaves).

Keep it in the water for a few weeks. Make sure to refresh the water every one or two weeks and ensure that it’s not drying out beneath the growth points. When the roots are about inches long, it is possible to transplant the cutting into clean and well-draining soil.

What about other methods of propagation?

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There are many ways to propagate that you could explore as well. For pothos, I’ve been enjoying using LECA as a propagation medium. LECA are balls of clay in which you store an evaporation reservoir in. The cutting you place in these clay balls, absorbs the water and then dries out those clay pieces.

I am a huge fan of LECA propagation as it promotes the growth of strong roots. You’ll notice that the roots are different when compared with water propagation. Learn additional details on LECA growth in the following blog.

Perlite and sphagnum moss excellent alternatives. You’ll have to keep an eye on the cutting carefully using this method to make sure the medium doesn’t completely dry out along the way. It can also dry out fast!

Perlite and moss are great for DIY plastic plant propagation containers in which humidity is high. It is also possible to put the mix and the cuttings in a small container and then put the bag in a plastic container over it. Find out the entire article about sphagnum-moss and the propagation of perlite to learn more.

In the end, you can ignore these suggestions and simply put your cut into the soil. This is by far my least preferred method for propagation, because, even though it’s the simplest, it isn’t able to observe the growth of my roots. It’s also difficult to keep track of the levels of soil moisture.

If you decide to propagate a Baltic Blue cutting directly in the soil, I’d suggest dipping it into the powder for rooting hormones first. Then, plant it in clean well-drained soil. Make sure the soil is moist, but not overly wet.

The higher humidity levels are beneficial, as is indirect light. After a couple of weeks, you may gently pull the cut to see whether you feel any resistance. If so then it is rooted. In the next few weeks or so you should stop the watering so that you don’t overwater the plant.

Looking for other articles on our plant guides, then check this out

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Pothos Plant Care

Why is my asparagus fern yellowing?

Why Are My Caladium Leaves Curling?

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