Philodendron Mamei Care: The stunning and stunning Philodendron mamei is a creeping aroid that has large heart-shaped leaves, with striking silver-coloured variegation.
The silver-coloured markings are what makes this plant unique It looks like streaks made by hand!
The leaves are characterized by a distinctive surface texture with ridges and the petiole part which connects the stem to the leaf is a dark maroon red.
It’s also known in the context of Silver Cloud or Quilted Silver Leaf in case you recognize it by these names.
This comprehensive philodendron care guide will teach you how to keep its ruffled leaf and stunning variations shining bright.
Quick Philodendron Mamei Care Breakdown
- Soil: Well-drained Loose
- Light Indirect, bright
- Watering: Keep it damp but not too much.
- Temperature: 65-80deg F (18-29degC)
- Humidity: 50-70%+
- Fertilizer: Balanced or Nitrogen-rich
Origin of the Philodendron and The Backstory
Like many philodendron species, The philodendron mamei is from the dense canopy that covers the South American jungles, more specifically Ecuador.
It was first discovered in 1883 by the aroid Botanist Dr Thomas B. Croat during a paid expedition, which was sponsored by Missouri Botanical Garden.
For a long time it was believed that the silver cloud was terrestrial meaning that it was a soil-based plant, however, over the last 20 years, it has been discovered that the philodendron mamei was epiphytic. This means that it thrives through the growth of trees and other organic materials.
Due to its distinctive variety, it’s considered rare however it is abundant in the wilds of Ecuador. The constant rise in demand around the world has contributed to its constantly increasing cost.
As for an index of rare plants, it’s not as rare as the red moon of the philodendron just to get an impression!
Philodendron Mamei Plant Care
The bloom of Philodendron mamei is a result of an aroid potting mix that is quick draining and abundant with organic matter. It typically consists of a mixture of perlite, coco coir orchid bark, worm castings pumice, activated charcoal.
It’s important to note that there’s no standard Aroid mix. In the wild, they thrive in all kinds of mediums.
Blends that are recommended
This mix is what I have in my mamei of philodendron (amongst others Philos):
- 40% coco coir
- 15 15% orchid bark
- 15 per cent perlite
- 10% worm castings
- 10 10% pumice
- 10 10% activated charcoal
The trick with philodendrons lies to make sure that the mixture can be described as well-draining and has elements that hold some moisture. Coco coir can retain as much as 9 times the weight of its water.
What is the reason? This Mix Works
The philodendron mamei isn’t a fan to be either too dry or too wet. It’s about finding the right equilibrium between these two and this woody, the airy substrate is akin to its hexagonal epiphytic form.
Philodendron Mamei Care Light Requirements
Where Does This Plant Grow Naturally
The Global Biodiversity Information Facility mentions that Philodendron Mamei is naturally found in the eastern part of the Andes in Ecuador and, more importantly, it has been observed to thrive in shade along the banks of rivers.
Light Intensity Recommendation
It thrives in light, indirect and bright sunlight and you’ll see more green leaves as a result of this however, you shouldn’t be afraid to place it in an area that gets about 1-2 hours of direct, cool sunlight in the morning each day.
Contrary to what many people think that colour bleaching and scorching issues only occur when plants are kept in direct sunlight for 3or more hours per day.
What is Indirect, Bright Light?
Indirect light that is bright and indirect is more powerful than you imagine!
It can be difficult to measure light and is it’s a matter of opinion. That’s why I adore and utilize my light meter to decide which plant to keep. It is a measure of the total light intensity in a space with the footcandles (FC).
How Much Do You Think This Plant Will Need in a House?
The light level at which the plant can tolerate is 200F(this will be the minimum) and is the best choice to maintain. For maximum development, 400-500FC is ideal.
Nurseries tend to grow these plants at the light range of 1500 to 2000 F typically in full sun and covered with 20-40 per cent shade cloth.
Myth buster black markings on the silver are the result of growing under a shaded canopy, it’s the plant’s method of adjusting to lower light. An. Nope – not the case. The variation in colour of leaves occurs due to cells that have been altered or genetic mutations from the plant’s mother or random, referred to as chimeric botany terminology.
Maintaining Those Variegated Silvery Leafs shining Bright After the Purchase
If you’ve seen a unicolour plant transform into a solid green when purchased from a nursery, you’re not the only one. This happens when plants are transferred from bright nurseries to dim homes.
Even with the most powerful possible indirect sources of light, this could still occur as your plant is adjusting to the new surroundings.
Take a look at your light source and ensure it is a bright light!
Place it in a brightly well-lit area for a couple of weeks, and the variegation will return, but it is not due to the leaves of old but to the new leaves taking root.
Philodendron Mamei Watering
Philodendron Mameis” LOVE well-drained soil. However, the main thing to remember is well-drained soil. Soggy, waterlogged, or boggy soil can quickly lead to root rot, and also Erwinia blight disease.
It’s a good thing that if you have an excellent potting mix like previously mentioned, you’ll be able to drain your garden there is excess water.
The subject of overwatering is complex however, the main reason is by the frequency of watering and the quality that soil air aeration is, and not necessarily the quantity of water you consume.
How to Tell If Your Plant is in Need of Water
Make use of a simple chopstick, place it a few inches within the salad (away from the stem) then watch the stick once it’s taken out.
- The wet soil will stick to the chopstick and cause the stick to take on more dark
- The moist soil will have a smooth texture (you’ll be able to move the stick)
- Dry soil is tough compacted, brittle, and brittle. It will not alter its colour. stick.
You could also try the standard finger test using the knuckle. Place your finger into the potter’s mix. If it’s damp at the second or first knuckle, you can hold off on watering. If it’s dry, take the time to provide your plants with a nice drink.
The Best Way to Water Your Philodendron Mamei
Make sure to water every plant until it is completely dry at the drain holes. This applies to ALL plants that you have – including succulents and cacti.
The water doesn’t just help keep the mixture moist, but it draws oxygen into your root system (ironically aiding in preventing the root from rotting).
Be sure to water all around the pot, not only in one place.
Did you remember that I mentioned this plant is a native of Ecuador’s vast Ecuadorian rainforests? That means you’ll need to replicate the temperature as closely as you can, which is that you’ll be on the warmer side.
Ideal Temperature Band
The Ecuadorian rainforest’s temperature base all year long can be 77degF (25degC). As a rule of thumb, anywhere between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit is the ideal temperature (18-29degC).
Anything lower than 55degF (12.5degC) can cause stunted growth, melting, or even the death of a plant.
Since it is a tropical species, it’s not surprising that a major one of the philodendron mamei’s main concerns is to maintain a high level of humidity. The plant is a humidity enthusiast, considering 50%-70%plus.
This humidity level leads to leaves that are thicker and more prominent with more textured textures.
Higher Humidity Levels
To boost the humidity within your home, make use of a small humidifier, and then group your plants in a group.
The grouping of plants can help create a mini biome in which plants share ‘humidity resources’.
The Science Behind Grouping
Plants shed the water they absorb from leaves by the process known as transpiration. The water vapour immediately is absorbed by the plant, causing an increase in the humidity of the area.
When you group your plant’s transpiration will increase and the humidity levels significantly increase.
As opposed to their counterparts in the outdoors, houseplants are incapable of obtaining more nutrients after all the minerals in the soils or mixes are diminished. In the event of a deficiency, fertilizer can cause massively slow growth
Best Fertilizer for Philodendron Mamei
I use and recommend the Dyna Gro (7-9-5 NPK Formula) It’s a complete liquid fertilizer that has all the 16 essential nutrients your plant requires to live which includes the 3 main nutrients including nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.
It’s also extremely low in nitrogen salts heavy and is free of urea, which could alter the soil’s pH and cause burns to the roots if it’s too much.
The Best Way to Re-Fertilize your Philodendron Mamei
Dilute 1 teaspoon of Dyna-Grow in 1 gallon of water (4.5 litres) and then water your plant using this solution each time during the spring and in the summer.
Why I feed my plant each when they receive irrigation is because it replicates the way they develop in their natural surroundings. In nature plants, they receive a steady flow of nutrients throughout weeks and days. They do not take a big drink every month.
Alternately, you can apply an all-purpose, high-quality houseplant liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen and utilize the same feeding method.
What is the best time to fertilize your Philodendron Mamei
It is best to fertilize during the spring and summer months, which are the most productive months of the year. reduced in the fall and complete stop in the winter, colder months.
This isn’t meant to allow the plant to rest according to many sources however, it’s because winter generally brings lesser light, which results in less growth. By avoiding fertilization in winter, it reduces the chance of residual salt accumulation or burning of the roots.
Does this method burn my Plant?
That’s the appeal of it. Remember, we dilute the fertilizer by half, then we diluted it by half. I’ve had no issues in the form of root burns with this method.
Friendly Tips: Cheap fertilizers are packed with heavy nitrogen salts which, when used in large quantities, could cause damage to the roots and bases of your plant and could lead to the death of your plant.
Are Organic Fertilizers Do the job?
They are, however, they must be activated to function. Organic fertilizers require the help of microbes or bacteria present in the soil to begin decomposing and breaking down nutrients that plants need to absorb.
This occurs over a longer period but they have been found to enhance soil structure, assist in the movement of water and come with a ‘no-burn assurance.
Organic Fertilizers with the Best Quality
I often add the extract of seaweed or fish emulsion on my plants to provide an additional boost to the foliage. Alaskan fish emulsion can be a great option for those who live in an area that allows you to take your plants outside (it’s somewhat sour, therefore not something you can make use of in the home).
So far, I’ve observed the plants that have variegated varieties develop deeper hues using organic fertilizers, likely because they’re loaded with micronutrients and growth hormones for plants such as gibberellins and cytokinins.
Development – What can I Expect?
The philodendron mamei, also known as the silver cloud plant is as tall as 3 feet and has leaves that can grow at up to 45cm (18 inches) in the width. In the outdoors, they can get even larger, with stems growing to up to 3 feet long!
As with all philodendrons they’ll be dwarfed by their indoor counterparts outdoors.
Pruning: How Should I Prune This Plant?
Its huge, huge leaves and strong, stiff stems self-head meaning they don’t require regular pruning to grow or remain tidy. I only trim leaves when they’re damaged or diseased or sick.
Philodendron Mamei Propagation: How do you Propagate your Philodendron Mamei?
I’ve heard and seen mixed results from the mamei philodendron propagation. It’s likely because it’s a self-heading philodendron that can be extremely difficult to grow outside seed and tissue culture propagation.
Many see it grow quickly, while others see poor results. Air layering and stem cuttings are the most effective techniques I’ve used so far.
A close friend of mine owns an exclusive nursery for rare aroids. She has played around with the method of tissue culture for many decades. It’s not an easy or easy method for beginners, however, and it’s not always able to create a mamei with distinctive silver streaks.
Philodendron Mamei Techniques for Propagation – Step by step
Cutting your plant could be a bit scary, but don’t be afraid it’s a very easy process. I’ll guide you through the process step-by-step.
Friendly Tips: Propagating at the beginning of spring at the beginning of the development cycle, offers the likelihood of developing strong and healthy roots.
Method # 1: How to Use an X-ray of a Stem cutting
- Choose a healthy plant or branch that has at least 3 nodes. Nodes are the tiny connections with aerial roots that grow into the leaf.
- If you have a good pair of pruning scissors take the stem and cut it at the point where it is beneath the point.
- Create a small pot of perlite and sphagnum moss that is moist. The moss should be damp but not completely soaked.
- The freshly cut stem or aerial roots in the solution of a rooting hormone or powder. This is not mandatory, however, I have found it beneficial.
- The stem should be planted in the potting mix you have made (2-3 inches deep into the mixture). The nodes must be submerged in the mix as this is where the roots originate.
- The rest portion of your pot perlite and spag moss mix.
- Put it in a space that receives bright indirect light.
- The usual water as it is.
Roots can grow fairly quickly when you are using mamei. Within 2 to 3 weeks, you should begin to see roots beginning to grow.
After the roots have grown to about one inch (3cm) long the plant can be moved to a larger container that has more potting mix.
Method 2 How to air layer your Philodendron
The method of air layering works on mature plants that are established.
- Find older, well-established aerial roots sprouting out of an established node.
- Get some sphagnum moss, which is moist and wrap it over the node, securing it with roots.
- Utilizing a clear plastic bag, or squeeze and seal food wrap it around the node and moss. Be sure to keep out any leaves inside the wrap.
- If you have used a plastic bag you’ll need zip ties to hold it in place. Seal and press food wrap will tape itself up quite easily (I’ve always found it to be simpler! ).
- Keep the top and bottom seals open. New roots love to go downwards, and this allows them to achieve this without getting tangled up.
- Make sure to thoroughly mist the sphagnum moss by opening the top of the plastic bag daily. This prevents the moss from becoming compact and drying out. Don’t let the ball of moss dry out.
- Give it a couple of weeks to see new roots form. Are there no roots visible? Do not worry, just avoid cutting the plant and try again. Air layering is a 100 100% secure and safe propagation technique for this reason.
- Remove the plastic wrap and a bit of the moss from the new roots. Make sure that your new roots appear healthy!
- Cut the stem in the middle, just below new roots with clean scissors.
- Put the stem in a thick potter’s mix.
That’s it! I like the air layering method since it’s safer. The plant is cut only after the roots have grown and not before.
Common Pests and diseases to be on the lookout for
The philodendron mamei is an extremely resilient plant when it is in the face of insects. It’s not susceptible to any specific. The top suspects to look for include:
- Mealybugs are white, unarmored sap-sucking bugs that are round in form
- Scale White, yellow or orange sucking bugs that eat sap
- Thrips – tiny yellow, brown or orange slender bugs that suck the sap
- Spider mites are tiny, yellowish sap-sucking bugs that produce an incredibly thick webbing
- Erwinia Blight Disease – wet lesion that looks mushy on leaves and stems
How to Treat Bug Infestations and diseases
Mealybugs can be controlled by trimming and dabbing an alcohol-soaked cotton swab onto the affected areas.
Spider mites can be controlled by trimming the areas that are infested before spraying the leaves with diluted neem oil in water.
Scale, when treating small infestations, is well-responsible for pruning and the use of rubbing alcohol. If you have larger infestations, you’ll probably be required to eliminate the plant.
Thrips can be treated with pruning or a diluted Neem oil treatment.
Neem oil is an organic oil that comes from India which, when it is pressed, is a natural insecticide. Although it’s diluted, it’s powerful and can do the job.
Erwinia Blight Disease However, it’s much easier to avoid than treat. It’s a bacterial illness that requires moisture to propagate and can be caused by excessive watering and misting.
It usually begins below the soil’s level, and in days, it can grow to the leaves and stems.
Pruning the affected leaves, replacing mixing the mix for potting, reducing the amount of watering, and permitting space between plants to allow to speed up the drying of the leaves.
Unfortunately, bactericides, such as copper sulfate are known to not be effective in treating the erwinia Blight. If the disease spreads to a lot of leaves or too many parts on the stem, then it’s not curable.
Toxicity – Is This Plant Toxic?
Yes. The philodendron mamei can be toxic to children as well as pets such as dogs and cats. The leaves of the plant contain calcium oxalate crystals which, ingestion can result in swelling and growth of the mouth, oesophagus and GIT.
Help! What’s wrong with my Plant? – Common Philodendron Mamei Problems
1. Yellowing and wilting leaves
The yellowing, wilting leaves could simply mean that your plant is adapting to the new surroundings – changing the previous growth to a new one as it adjusts.
Sometimes, it could be an indication of excessive watering or root rot gaining traction. Look at the bottom of the plant right away for mushy, black and sour-smelling roots.
If you notice that root rot I’d suggest trying to salvage some cuttings to propagate the roots.
2. Only one leaf is turning Yellow
This could not be root rot, so be cautious from taking any cuttings. This could be a sign the plant may be suffering from stress, even though it’s at the beginning of the process.
One leaf that turns yellow could be an indication of insects, too direct sunlight that is bright and bright, or maybe a magnesium nutritional deficit.
If you’ve just propagated or repotted, this might be a temporary reaction being rooted.
If it starts spreading to other leaves quickly, look at the root for decay.
3. Wet Mushy Patches on the leaves
This could be caused by Erwinia Blight illness or pseudomonas leaves spot. Infections with bacteria can cause patches to smell unpleasant. Both diseases require moisture for growth.
Make sure to change the potting mix allow the plant to dry out and then hold off on pruning and watering, then trim any affected leaves. The fungicides and bactericides aren’t likely to be effective against these kinds of diseases.
4. The Edges that Brown or Brown Leaves
This could indicate that your plant is exposed to too much direct, bright sunlight or is being submerged. Underwater plants are more likely to have curly leaves.
5. Pale Leaf Color/Losing Variegation
Transfer your plant to a more bright spot. Plants in a house that receive very little illumination will seek to expand towards the light source, resulting in leggy and weak stems. This is called etiolation or phototropism in the field of botany.
This can cause leaves to lose their colour, typically either off-yellow or white.
The absence of that distinctive deep green colour with silvery-white patches is an obvious indicator that your mamei’s not receiving enough light.
6. Stems Look Leggy
This is larger and leggier naturally. It’s not compact in any way and will get larger when it gets older. It has protruding, long stems, which will rise whenever they get the opportunity.
It’s not so much an issue, but in reality, it can be an indication that your plant is in good health. If legginess is evident with pale green leaves and a pale leaf, it’s most likely that the cause is the plant being placed in dim light.
FAQ Answers to Common Questions about the philodendron Mamei
Do I need to provide Assistance for my Philodendron Mamei to grow?
Yes, you can. However, they’re self-heading, which means that they’re built to stand up in their own right as they grow older.
But, using a few metal sticks and a few ties to help prop the massive leaves up can help to provide support to the smaller stems. It’s entirely up to you.
Do the Philodendron Mamei purify and cleanse the air?
Yes! A 1989 NASA study discovered that having philodendrons along with other plants around the home between 15 and 18 in total could take common toxins out of your air e.g. formaldehyde as well as benzene.
Does an example of Philodendron Mamei Rare?
The philodendron mamei was once thought to be an expensive and scarce plant however, thanks to the tissue culture, which is utilized by botanists and professional nursery growers, it’s increased in popularity, even though it’s still considered to be a rare aroid due to the huge demand worldwide for the plant.
Do you have the ability to grow the Philodendron Mamei using Seeds?
This method is used by botanists and professional nurseries growers but is not used by hobbyists or home gardeners.
It’s a complicated procedure that, if not properly controlled by laboratory conditions, it’s likely to fail. For seeds to be used, the philodendron mamei needs to bloom and when it’s placed in a greenhouse, it will not flower.
For people who are plant-lovers who live at home, the air layer technique is the highest likelihood of success.
Philodendron Mamei and Sodiroi What’s different?
The philodendron mamei plant is a herb that creeps, while it is a climber. The Philodendron Sodiroi is a climber. Creepers are excellent groundcovers and can get very big.
Philodendron sodiroi, on the other hand, is compact and is taller than wide.
The only thing that is common with the plant is silver-clouded and silver leaf philodendron lies in the leaf shape and the stunning silvery marks.
Philodendron Mamei and Plowmanii What’s different?
The most noticeable difference between them is the fact that philodendron mamei bears silver variegation patterns, while the plowmanii philodendron doesn’t. Plowmaniis also have larger, more petioles and leaves with a more fine texture.
Philodendron Mamei and Silver Cloud – What’s the difference?
There’s no difference between the philodendron Mamei plant and that of the silver cloud. It’s the same plant with a different name.
How Can I Make My Philodendron Mamei look fuller?
To keep the philodendron mamei’s leaf appearing bright and vibrant, you’ll need to put it in a spot with plenty of indirect, bright light. The primary reason why the plant appears thin is due to inadequate light.
A higher level of humidity can result in larger, longer leaves, as well as a continuous flow of nutrients.
A nitrogen-based fertilizer with micronutrients can boost its overall growth in the foliage.
Can I Mist my Philodendron Mamei?
I never spray my plants. Based on the findings of this University of Illinois study misting does not do much to improve the humidity level or general well-being of the plant, and could cause problems down the line.
Insufficient misting could cause the much-dreaded Erwinia blight disease as well as Pseudomonas Leaf Spot. It’s best to correct the root cause of the issue e.g. the lack of moisture.
How do you take care of a philodendron Mamei?
Philodendron Mamei care requires 70-85% sunlight. The sun that is filtered is the best to cultivate the plant and so it should be placed on an east-facing window or west window side area. For the best chance of growing Philodendron Mamei outdoors, you must acclimatize the plant to its new surroundings and be aware that it is prone to sunburn.
How fast does philodendron Mamei grow?
Roots are likely to grow quickly when you are using the mamei. Within a couple of weeks, there should be roots that are beginning to establish. When the roots are about one inch (3cm) long and you can move them to a larger container that has more potting mix.
Is philodendron Mamei a climber?
Technically, the mamei is a crawler similar to the gloriosum however, it does it in so that it can be tied to a pole, and so it can be seen as climbing the philodendron.
What is the rarest philodendron?
What is the rarest of Philodendrons? The rarest of the Philodendrons that is listed here is The Philodendron Spiritus Sancti. There are only a few of these beautiful, unique leaves in the wild the endangered species is the most sought-after Philodendron type. This is also among the most expensive varieties of Philodendron readily available.
Is philodendron Mamei terrestrial?
As Philodendron mamei is a terrestrial invasive species, it is usually located on banks that are steep with its caudex creeping on the ground.
Why is a philodendron so expensive?
Since variation is a genetic variation in plants that is very rare, it’s logical that varieties with variegated philodendrons cost more than the unvariegated ones. … In the end demand, geographic place of origin, scarcity, and variation are the primary reasons for why philodendron plants may be quite costly.
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